Modelling Waves in the World Surfing Reserve of Ericeira – Project Outcomes

Last month, we’ve concluded the project Coastal Wave Modelling in the World Surfing Reserve of Ericeira, funded by the Fund for Bilateral Relations of the EEA Grants Portugal. The aim of this Bilateral Initiative was to apply mid to high-fidelity numerical tools for modeling waves in the World Surfing Reserve of Ericeira. This initiative sought not only to provide better and more detailed information for surfing practitioners but also to develop models that local authorities could use for preserving coastal assets.

As a result of the partnership between blueOASIS, a start-up headquartered in Ericeira, and the Norwegian university NTNU, developer of the wave simulator REEF3D, this initiative included two visits by the Norwegian partners to Ericeira. These visits allowed them to gain a deeper understanding of the Surfing Reserve and transfer knowledge regarding REEF3D. During their stay, some meetings were held with local stakeholders, including Mafra’s Municipality and Ericeira Surf Club, to engage with the local community and establish partnerships.

Additionally, a numerical model of Ericeira’s coast was created, enabling the simulation of wave propagation and interaction with the coast using High-Performance Computing (HPC) systems. A methodology was also devised to characterize the distribution and types of breaking waves, a critical aspect for surfers. All the results were compiled and presented at a final workshop in Ericeira, which gathered participants from academia, industry, and the surfing community. Furthermore, the results were presented at the OMAE2024 conference in Singapore and published in a scientific publication.

The reception of this project was positive, and plans are in place to continue the initiative, with some applications for surfing in Ericeira already scheduled. Moreover, the project served as a proof of concept and may be the starting point for its application in coastal preservation activities and even the creation of an operational model.